Tuesday 26 January 2016

The Green Holidays

The Christmas songs, Santa Clause parades, fireworks and baking cakes have stopped, but I have yet to tell you about my experience of the holidays in Jayapura, Papua.  The anticipation of Christmas began with English Christmas songs playing in stores.  Starting at the end of November children and youth set off firecrackers and use this homemade tube-like contraption that sounds like a bomb.  At first these sounds were very confusing because it sounds like a war and it’s easy to be startled by a bang when driving a motor scooter.  However, the noise did not reach its height until New Years Eve, which I will tell you more about in a moment.

Leading up to Christmas churches and neighbourhoods have special services on weekdays.  I went to several Christmas services before the big day.  Then my church has a service on the 24th, 25th, 26th, 31st, 1st not counting the regular Sunday service.  I can’t understand most of what is said at church, but I enjoyed how each person got a candle and we sang familiar Christmas songs in Indonesian. 

Starting in December and every day until Christmas there is a parade that goes around my city.  Santa Claus, several princesses, Winnie the Pooh and Sentrapids sit in the back of a truck leading about 20 festive motorcyclists honking their horns.  Sentrapids are Dutch fictional characters, people coated in black paint that accompany Santa Claus and scare children.  The parade was cool to see the first day, but then it annoyed me because it slows down traffic.  Then one day I was invited by my two host sisters to join it.  I figured it was time to join the festivities rather than criticizing their inefficiency.  We jumped on our motor scooters and patiently followed Santa Claus.  We stopped at various houses and Santa Claus gave children a gift while the Sentrapids chased the children.  This picture is of my little host brother receiving a gift and crying because his siblings terrify him with stories of the sentrapid.

The tradition I enjoyed the most about the holidays was that neighbours/friends/family visit each other.  Every household sets out jars of cookies, salty snacks and bottles of pop.  Some of my neighbours are Muslim and I don’t know many of them so I was really excited that they came over.  I baked M&M oatmeal cookies and they were a significant point of discussion – everyone called them the Canadian cookie.
(This is my street with my pink house on the far left)

On New Years Eve we went to church and after the service they handed out papers with liturgy so that each family separately can do another service in their homes later that night. So at 11 pm my family sat down and sang/read/prayed again.  The fun began when we met my extended family just before 12 am.  The neighbourhood was incredibly loud as every person in Jayapura was setting off fireworks!  I sat outside with my aunts admiring the fireworks, breathing in the smoke, and looking with concern at the children setting off firecrackers.
(My host family and I on Christmas Eve, but my 2 sisters missing)

When people ask me how my holidays were, I say interesting.  I was surprised by how the central activity of Christmas was attending church services day after day.  The chaos of explosions and smoke during New Years Eve was also a shock, but I was happy for a change from sitting in church.  I missed my family, community and traditions back in Canada, but something that helped me enjoy the moment was remembering that this was my first and probably last experience of Christmas in Papua. 
(A beautiful view of the ocean 10 minute drive from my house)

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